Lighting and boat parts. How to plan your boat lighting system

GET THE BEST FROM YOUR BOAT LIGHTING INSTALLATION

Of all boat parts cabin lighting is probably one of the most neglected of all boat electrical systems. Poor planning and equipment selection generally results in unexpectedly high electrical power consumption rates and poor illumination levels. Not to mention those infuriating failures at sea when you need them most, and the flashlight has dead batteries etc.

The subject of cabin illumination is not as simple as it first seems. After spending big money on boat parts for the rest of the boat, often the lighting fittings are purchased on the basis of cost alone, followed by aesthetic considerations. Usually this is a hurried visit to your local boat parts dealer.

This is not that surprising, as a quick calculation of those beautiful fixtures from the West Marine boat parts catalog can cause a momentary heart stoppage and a very big and long breath through clenched teeth. It is easy to spend a $1000 on lighting fittings that usually blows the boat-parts budget. Before you opt for the hurricane lantern solution consider the following first and ask some questions. What are the considerations when choosing light fittings and related boat parts? Well cost is an obvious consideration, but the following should be the primary decision factors:

1. What purpose is the fixture going to serve in the proposed location? 2. How big an area is required to be illuminated?

3. What is the level of illumination required?

4. How reflective is the area in which the fixture will be installed?

5. How long will the lighting fitting be on for in the chosen area?

6. What light fixture style is required for surrounding décor?

Define the purpose of your lights

The proposed purpose of lighting fixtures is an important consideration. They may be for general cabin illumination, or for bunk reading, work surface illumination in the galley, or illuminating the engine spaces. Each location has entirely differing requirements. Lights are more than just the average boat parts, they are essential safety equipment. The incandescent fixture with its filament bulb is power hungry for the given output and they suffer from physical degradation due to vibration, and with the life being shortened in over-voltage conditions with fast charge devices. As you have seen on your boat-parts forays, the shelves are full of cheap and nasty fittings.

The fluorescent lighting fixture has a much higher lumen output over the incandescent for significantly less power consumption. Like all fixtures they have drawbacks. The most notable is that most cheaper fittings are badly suppressed against RFI interference, with often serious consequences for radio communications such as noise.

The cheaper fittings seen on so many boat parts chandlers shelves also have similarly cheap inverter electronics, with a subsequently higher rate of failure, and a much higher tube failure rate as well. The low energy fitting is relatively new, however low energy fluorescent tube types are to be seen everywhere ashore and increasingly afloat these days. These have a very high lumen output for the power consumption. T

ypically a 75 watt bulb output for around 1.2 amps on 12 volt DC fittings. Most of the DC fixtures being made are tolerant to over voltage with quite high quality inverters, and like all European made equipment these days, they have suppression against RFI. The tubes are not cheap and are on a par with halogens. The halogen of HQL type has advantages that they are simple, and have high light outputs for the power consumed, with the average light having a 10 watt bulb.

There are a few disadvantages, the main ones being that if you inadvertently touch a bulb, the life of it will reduce considerably as the contaminants off a finger such as sweat etc degrade the high quality glass. The bulb itself is subject to quite high temperatures. The cost of the bulbs are rather expensive, typically around $8-$10. Additionally bulb life shortens considerably in over-voltage situations, typically this occurs when electrical system voltage rises to 14.6 – 15 volts under-charging or engine run situations. They do have the advantage of being dimmable which significantly lengthens bulb life, and this is recommended, also unlike fluorescent lights, you do not have an inverter to fail. The new generation LED lights are now appearing and have good output levels, do not generate heat and what is very important to many boaters is they do not use much electrical power.

Calculate the area size and illumination levels

This factor has a number of considerations. If you have a cavernous saloon it is going to take a fair amount of light to illuminate it all. If you want it well lit so you can read the paper, then it may even take more lighting. The area and the location of the various lights is just as important as planning it in a new home.

Background illumination, a luxury on a cruising yacht, is generally low power illumination that is used to provide "mood" or ambience illumination, especially when you’re at the boat drinks stage of the evening. What can be called low level illumination is localized and is often used for chart tables, red night and courtesy illumination. Most applications of this type are spot type fitings with localized beams.

High level lighting comprise those fixtures that are required to provide good levels of illumination to safely perform tasks. These include galley, saloon, engine machinery space etc. In these applications good shadow and glare-free illumination is essential. The word safety is an important one to remember here.

Consider reflective surface illumination factors

It is a simple fact that cabins with low reflective surfaces are going to require a greater number or more powerful output lights to illuminate that area. Painted surfaces, which are generally white and cream painted surfaces, have a high reflectivity, typically around 80%. This can have quite considerable cost ramifications. The major reductions are that fewer fixtures are required, less cable and installation costs, lower power consumption for the required illumination levels. Timber surfaces, such as some of the most beautiful teak fit-outs require considerable numbers of fittings, as the reflectivity of the teak is typically only around 20%.

Consider how long the lights will operate

This factor is critical as that all important calculation on power consumption can be made. The saloon fixtures may stay on for extended periods, with consequentially higher current consumption, whereas the toilet fixtures may not stay on long but be subject to a far greater switching on and off cycle. Bunk illumination is generally fairly low use, as are machinery spaces, and the chart table. Long term operation fittings require lower energy solutions to save power. So the equation will comprise an analysis of ratings and times. It is simple exercise but worthwhile.

CHOOSE THE CORRECT LIGHT FITTING

It is a regrettable fact that the ideal fixture in terms of illumination do not always match the aesthetic requirements. When you go to your local boat parts outlet the choice can be overwhelming. The challenge is therefore trying to come to a suitable compromise. Ideally a mixture of lighting boat parts will provide all of the necessary solutions.

The most common is the fluorescent tube fitting. The best of the boat parts range on a quality basis for fluorescent fittings is undoubtedly Aqua Signal. They are not cheap, but the tradeoff is that they are well engineered quality fittings, they will last as long as the boat, unlike most other fittings they will probably go through a lot less tubes, and similarly they will not cause aggravating Radio Frequency Interference (RFI). As a note all European fixtures are now interference free due to stringent requirements.

Low energy lighting fixtures are my preferred type. I have installed several brass finish fittings on my previous boat and will be installing some on my new boat. I am more than pleased with the appearance and the lumen output of them, with a low power consumption. So as a solution they meet all the criteria. These are available from Marlec in the UK and called Leisure lighting fittings. Generally one fitting will suffice, and both the diffusion and quality are excellent. There is an impressive array of quality fixtures available at your boat-parts outlet These range from the beautiful Cabin brass fixtures from Denmark with halogen lamps, to the very nice range from Cantalupi of Italy. My classic yacht has several Cabin brass fittings, they are good however spot illumination is not the whole answer.

My machinery spaces have a couple of nice halogen "Bunker" fittings, so that I have maximum illimination around the engine when I need it, and they look the part as well. Incandescent fixtures have their place and I had installed two stainless surround semi- recessed Italian lighting fittings in the toilet and shower area of my previous boat. They look terrific, are well made, and what is more being incandescent do not suffer as much from repeated switching on and off. My other incandescent is an Aqua Signal red fixture in the galley area for night vision retention on passage making when that coffee is essential to survival through the small hours.

BOAT ILLUMINATION SUMMARY

Treat your lighting system with same care as all other boat-parts and safety related systems on board. Look carefully at your lighting systems, assess whether they do the job and select the right fitting for each job. Ensure that they are properly installed, by ensuring that the correct sized cables are run so that voltage drop problems are eliminated, so you get the maximum available output. Don't treat you lights as some ordinary boat parts, they are essential so get the right ones for the job.

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