1999 Lund ProSport Transom Replacement - Cannot remove livewells

by Jeff
(Madison, WI)

Lund ProSport

Lund ProSport

Lund ProSport
Lund ProSport
Lund ProSport
Lund ProSport

The transom is completely rotted on my Lund ProSport. Lund provided me with a new wood transom (in place of fixing it under warranty).

I cannot get the live-wells/water-well out!

I need to take the live-wells and water-well unit out to access 8 bolts that go through the outside of the aluminum hull through the transom, and then have a bolt on the inside of the boat. I have removed the rivets from inside the live-wells, and where the water-well attaches to the transom, and where it attaches to the boat frame. I also removed screws that were attached to the side panels.

I removed the flotation foam from along side of the live-wells, and have pounded a 1/8" thick piece of flat steel along the live-wells where ever I could get access.

I placed a hoist strap through the water-well access hole and battery compartment, and used a jack where I could access inside the battery compartment to attempt to create pressure to break the hold that the foam insulation has on the metal. A soldered seam at the battery compartment/live-well area broke, and I am still unable to get the live-wells/water-well out.

Does anyone have any experience/ideas on why this area is still stuck? Lund told me that there should be nothing else holding this area in besides the adhesion to the flotation foam.

2 other ideas that I am kicking around are:
1) cut the transom bolts in question, and replaced with a little larger size stainless lag-bolt using 3M 5200 so that I would not need to get access to the inside.
2) Slice the new transom so that it would slide down over top of the existing bolts though the transom, so I would not have to remove them.

I have attached some photos of the work area.

Thanks for any help/ideas.

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Dec 24, 2015
Just forget the wood replacement from Lund
by: Bruce wiley

I have a previous post from last summer. We couldn't be happier than the choice for the seacast composite that we installed on the Lund.I have been on three trips to Lac Seul since and put the boat through some very rough water. Start by removing the rotten old wood transom. Use a electric chain saw for the ends of the old transom from the top down. Use a long drill bit to drill down to center of the transom. Then install an all threaded rod and a nut and washer underneath to lift it out. (The rotten wood does not go all the way to the bottom of the boat, it is accessable.)
Then forget about adding any new wood to this problem ever again. Other than the two cover plates I installed after cutting the two acess openings in the spill well there is no reason to remove the live Wells ,gunell or most of the rest of the process that Lund describes for transom replacement. I believe this can be repaired in much less time and effort with this seacast process. The end result is far stronger than wood.
Happy to discuss this on the phone for more details. 612-490-7056. I have pictures as well of this process. It's not that difficult after you understand the how to part.

May 25, 2015
Easier fix to the rotten lund transoms
by: Bruce wiley

I am in process of replacing the entire transom on my 2003 lund fisherman.
DO NOT FOLLOW the standard line of B.S? To remove your old rotten transom wood.
And above all don't put new wood back in its place.
Here are the steps for removal.
Pull the motor, remove the unsealed transom track.
Cut two access ports on either side of the open center spill well. Remove all the foam that covers the through bolts. Remove all the bolts and drain port sleeves. 38 bolts 1/4 x2.75
Drill out the accessible rivets.
Cut out the top of the transom on each side with an electric chain saw. Be careful not to touch the aluminum skins.
Drill 1/2 inch hole from the top in the center line of the transom, insert a 1/2 all threaded rod through the open bottom of the transom. It does not extend all the way to the bottom. Place a washer and nut underneath the all tread rod . Install a chain to the the other end and lift out the old rotten wood mostly in one piece other than the ends.
It is not nessasary to remove the gunnels or the live wells this way.
Spend the $700. For the SEACAST material . It's a pourable composite material. Check out their web site , they couldn't be more helpful.
I plan on covering the cut out access ports with aluminum plates. Rivet them in. And seal with 3M 5200 sealant.
Anybody's boat will then have a perminate fix to LUNDS problem. Seacast even furnishes you with a neat emblem to show that the repair has been completed properly .
As I complete this process look for more details and pictures.
Call me if you have questions 612-490-7056

Apr 18, 2011
Thank you
by: Phil

Thank you for all the info. The wood has been ordered from the dealer, the engine lift ring is on it's way and the motor stand is built so it looks like I'm going to tackle this job. I have a plan to add deck a plate access on each side of the spalsh pan similar to the one in the center that should allow acess all the bolts without having to remove the live well unit. How did you remove the drain tubes from the splash pan? What did you replace them with? I appreciate all the help from someone who's been there and done that on the same boat.

Apr 17, 2011
1999 Lund ProSport Transom
by: JRex

Hi Phil,

sorry to hear that you share the same fate as I. I just finished with this project, and it was a bear.

In answer to your question regarding the gunnels, Lund recommended removing the rivets all the way to the front of the wind shield, and then lifting them up to provide clearance. I attempted this, but did not feel like messin with the area by the shifter controls etc. so I cut the gunnels off just before the transom area with a sawz-all, and it is currently at a welding shop getting welded back; supposed to pick it up tomorrow.

You will need to remove the motor. That took some learning as well. A local marina wanted $400 to remove and store. I bought an engine hook (screws into the top of the flywheel) for $50 online (and this will be for sale). I made a stand for the motor out of 2*6, 2*4 wood with 4 caster wheels (around $50 - for sale). I bought a 2 ton hoist ($45 Harbor Freight), which I attached to a horseshoe pit post that I built into a 4*4 post, attached to a 2*10 and then to joists in my shed-reinforced under the joists with 2*6's on either side of the motor.

I worked on removing the live-wells for 2 days before I decided that I did not want to remove them because they were so wedged-in that I became concerned about getting them back in place. The blown in floatation foam had adhered to all aluminum under parts of live well and water well. I was able to get to all bolts except 2, and those I cut off and replaced with lag bolts that were a bit larger in diameter along with 3m 5200 permanent adhesive.

As far a wood removal, I got a lot of input from a person I met at a local boat repair shop. I bought 24" auger bits at Harbor Freight, and drilled and drilled, and used a 24" pry bar (Menards) to get any chunks out. I used a shop vac with an extension to suck up the rotted wood dust/pieces, etc.

I used a poly-resin (thinned with acetone) to cover all parts of the transom (2x) and then placed a layer of 3m 5300 all around the edges to seal. The transom is a 3/4" and a 5/8" (or so) piece of marine grade plywood with staples (you will run into them taking out the old wood).

Lund said their shop guys would take 35 hours (at $75) a hour to do this job), I did not get an official estimate but figured it would cost me $3 grand.

This project is not for the faint of heart, but I had 0 experience and I was able to get it done.

Good luck,


Apr 17, 2011
In the same boat
by: Phil

Just this morning I discovered that I have the same transom rot problem with the same make and year of boat. In looking at it I question how I would go about lifting the old wood out and sliding the new wood in unless the gunwales are removed. Since they run all the way to the bow this is a big job. Have you found a solution to this. Also, did the replacement from Lund come as a soild unit or as panels that get laminated together? Thanks for any insight you can provide as I'm deciding whether I want to dig into this on my own.


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